Cellier Saint Benoit Arbois Pupillin Côte de Feule Ploussard 2022

Côte de Feule is Pupillin’s most renowned vineyard, the village’s de facto grand cru. It lies in the heart of the appellation on a south-facing slope at 390 metres. The site was once a stone quarry, and Benjamin farms just 0.4 hectares of old-vine Ploussard rooted in steep, iris-coloured Triassic soils littered with limestone gravel. From vines planted in 1961, this is the cellar’s most inviting and approachable example of this fascinating grape variety. All of Benjamin’s Ploussards are crafted using mostly hand-destemmed grapes—Benoit uses only 5% of the ripest stems—with this cuvée fermented spontaneously in a large tronconique wooden cask, then aged for 12 months in tank. Reflecting the warm season, the 2022 is a headier, deeper rendition with a gorgeous pure, sweet fruit personality to go with its seductive spice and powdery tannins. Benjamin recommends opening it one hour before serving and pouring it into a large glass.